Producers

Aragon, Spain

Reviving a Forgotten Wine Region: Jorge Olivera’s Project in Sobrarbe

In the rugged pre-Pyrenean region of Sobrarbe, Aragón, winemaking once thrived. Until the 1960s, villages like Coscojuela de Sobrarbe produced tens of thousands of liters annually, supplying local towns by mule. But the construction of reservoirs, depopulation, and a shift to easier crops like cereals brought the tradition to a halt. Today, only fragments of that heritage remain—about 10 hectares of old vines scattered across the region.

Mechanical engineer Jorge Olivera is leading a quiet revival. In 2009, he planted vines on his family’s land in Coscojuela, initially for personal use. Over time, what began as a hobby evolved into a full-fledged project, culminating in the construction of a small, solar-powered winery in 2021. By 2022, he had left his factory job to become a full-time winegrower.

Jorge now manages around 10 hectares of organically farmed vineyards, combining young plantings with 30–40-year-old vines. His focus is on local varieties such as Moristel, Garnacha Tinta, Parraleta, Macabeo, and Garnacha Blanca, alongside Chardonnay and Tempranillo. Farming is done with cover crops and biodynamic methods, and winemaking follows a minimal-intervention philosophy: native yeasts, no filtration or clarification, and no added sulphites.

His wines—produced outside any formal appellation—are expressive, fresh, and unpretentious. Key labels include *Negiro* (Moristel + Garnacha), *O Baile de Gurrión* (Garnacha Tinta, Garnacha Blanca, Macabeo), *O Charraire* (Garnacha, Syrah, and Tempranillo), *Kemisio* (a juicy field blend), *As Nabatas* (a white based on Macabeo), and *Entremón* (Syrah). Production is small, typically under 15,000 bottles, driven by a desire to craft honest wines meant to be enjoyed.

With no website and little online presence, Jorge’s project spreads quietly, mainly through word of mouth and small importers across Europe. What he is building isn’t just a winery—it’s the return of a nearly lost wine landscape, one harvest at a time.