In El Pinell de Brai, a village in Terra Alta of Penedes, resides the legendary figure of the Catalan wine scene – Laureano Serres. A pioneer whose influence extends beyond winemaking, Laureano’s home and cellar serve as ground zero for Catalonia’s lively wine scene.

Laureano’s journey into winemaking took a turn from his career as a computer programmer in Madrid. He returned to his roots in El Pinell, taking the helm of the local winemaking cooperative before venturing out on his own. In 1999, under the Mendall label, he began bottling wines with a commitment to organic farming, a practice he has upheld since 2002 when a serendipitous omission of sulfur led to a revelation.

The six hectares of vineyards under Laureano’s care are strategically spread across parcels in El Pinell, at around 170 meters of altitude, and in Terra Alta, ascending to 500 meters above sea level. The terroir, characterized by limestone bedrock, imparts a unique freshness and complexity to the wines.

Laureano’s cellar is a hub of creativity and restraint, producing wines that are one-of-a-kind expressions of man, grape, and place. His unique winemaking methods involve a variety of vessels, and while space constraints often dictate early bottling, his approach combines spontaneity and thoughtful craftsmanship.

The influence of Laureano Serres extends far beyond his cellar. He played a pivotal role in the natural wine movement in Catalonia during the late 1990s, steering away from the prevailing generic international style. As president of the Catedral del Vi wine cooperative, Laureano demonstrated a commitment to craft over quantity, setting up Mendall in 1999 as a testament to his vision. His wines, as natural as they come, embody the flavors of a bygone era, reflecting the identity of climate, earth, and place.

The tale of Laureano is one of frenetic energy, deep loyalty to community, extreme generosity, and an insatiable thirst for wine. His influence, profound yet unassuming, has made him a beacon for a new generation of Catalan natural winemakers. In recent years, Laureano has settled into a unique methodology of cellar work, an organized anarchy that embraces spontaneity and experimentation.